Feature: Panerai’s 2025 Watches & Wonders releases
Panerai has launched several new Luminor models at this year’s Watches & Wonders, including a rare perpetual calendar, delighting fans of its flagship collection. Read on to discover what the brand unveiled altogether at the Geneva event.
Luminor Marina PAM03312/PAM03313/PAM03314
The Luminor is Panerai’s most recognisable collection, so we’ve been eagerly anticipating what the watchmaker has in store for it next. This Watches & Wonders, Panerai celebrates the legacy of the Luminor Marina with a series of models equipped with new details and technical features while continuing to preserve its core identity.
Featuring a typically large case size of 44mm, the references PAM03312, PAM03313 and PAM03314 are identical except for the dial colour, which comes in black, sun-brushed blue and white (pictured above), respectively.
We’re drawn to the latter and its matt white sandwich dial with a date window at 3 o’clock and a small-seconds dial at 9 o’clock. The black alligator leather strap with contrasting white stitching completes this piece.
Panerai offers an increased water resistance of 500 metres on these models—an appropriate rating for such an imposing dive watch with a rich maritime heritage. Previous Luminors came with a water resistance of 300 metres.
Powering each model is the new automatic calibre P.980 with a three-day power reserve and hours, minutes, small seconds and date functions. The exhibition caseback means you can admire the movement, which comes with a hollowed-out winding rotor and is otherwise spartan albeit nicely finished in brushed steel.
Luminor Marina PAM03323
If you love any of the above Luminor Marinas but you’d prefer the sturdiness of a bracelet to a strap, Panerai has obliged with the reference PAM03323. This new steel bracelet features a distinctive V-shape design that tapers slightly from the case to the buckle. A new on-the-go adjustment feature allows the wearer to extend the length by 2mm without the need for tools—useful where temperatures fluctuate, causing your wrist to expand and contract.
Should you wish to switch the bracelet for a strap in the summer months, it’s equipped with the PAM Click Release System, making the process quick and effortless. This reference comes with a blue dial that is a shade lighter than the one featured in the above PAM03313.
Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325
The new Luminor Marina Titanio follows suit from the latest steel versions, featuring the same credentials such as the upgraded 500-metre water resistance. It also runs on the automatic calibre P.980 with its hardy three-day power reserve.
What sets it apart is its lightweight 44mm Grade-5 titanium case and the stunning sun-brushed green dial—a colour that reflects Panerai’s military roots.
This isn’t the first time Panerai has used titanium in its watches. It initially appeared via the Millemetri prototype from the 1980s, and again in 1998 when Panerai unveiled the Submersible PAM00025. Selected for its corrosion resistance, titanium is the perfect material for robust tool watches worn in the type of extreme conditions for which the original Panerai watches were made.
Luminor GMT Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech PAM01575
It’s rare that Panerai makes watches with a perpetual calendar complication. While its discontinued Ferrari-branded watches, made between 2005 and 2010, offered a couple of examples, these relied on outsourced movements. It wasn’t until 2021 that Panerai produced an in-house perpetual calendar, the platinum-cased reference PAM00715, which also offered a GMT function. The above model unveiled at Watches & Wonders is a welcome variant of that exceptional milestone model.
The new PAM01575 features the same Platinumtech 44mm case and P.4100 automatic movement, but introduces an eye-catching blue sapphire dial. As well as a nod to Panerai’s famed maritime heritage, this transparent dial allows the wearer to view the underlying day and date disks before they move into position at 3 o’clock. It’s subtly done so as not to obscure the rest of the dial’s displays which are all a crisp white and enhanced with Super-LumiNova for excellent low-light legibility.
As with standard Luminor models, the small seconds is at 9 o’clock and this also incorporates an AM-PM indicator for the GMT function. The centrally mounted arrow-tipped blue hour hand is for the second timezone.
Not wanting to crowd the dial, the other displays can be seen through the exhibition caseback, with the use of a micro-rotor leaving ample room for year, power reserve and leap year indicators. Water resistance is 50 metres, which is more than acceptable for a watch this complicated.
The PAM01575 will be available exclusively in Panerai boutiques.
