Feature: Patek Philippe’s 2025 Watches & Wonders releases
As one of the industry’s most revered brands, Patek Philippe’s launches are always eagerly awaited at Watches & Wonders. Read on to discover several highlights unveiled at this year’s event, including a new variation of the Calatrava and a diamond-adorned Haute Joaillerie Nautilus.
Calatrava, reference 5328G-001
The Calatrava may be considered the quintessential dress watch, but Patek Philippe continues to offer models that go way beyond the pared-down time-only style this flagship collection is best known for.
This 41mm version in white gold bears many of the familiar Calatrava features, such as the round case, manual-wind movement and Clous de Paris guilloche work—albeit on the case band rather than the bezel. But it’s also given a fresh twist thanks to the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, a textured blue gradient dial and day-date displays that jump instantaneously at midnight. Bold Arabic numerals and syringe-style hands add a slight military aesthetic.
This model comes with a brand-new calibre, the 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, which boasts two series-coupled spring barrels, guaranteeing perfectly accurate operation for eight days, with a ninth “reserve” day displayed in red on the indicator.
Quadruple Complication, reference 5308G-001
This incredible Quadruple Complication Reference 5308 featuring a minute-repeater, split-seconds chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar isn’t entirely new. A version was originally presented at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo in 2023, but that version was in platinum and came with a rose gilt opaline dial.
It’s now presented in white gold and with a sunburst ice-blue dial which is complemented by the navy-blue alligator strap. One of the most complicated and best-looking watches in Patek’s current catalogue, we’re happy to see this one get an update rather than being consigned to the back catalogue.
Nautilus, reference 5811/1460G
This new Nautilus model takes Patek Philippe’s famous steel sports watch and adds some serious glamour. Made of 18k white gold, it artfully plays with gem cuts to enhance the Nautilus’ iconic design.
The rounded octagonal bezel is highlighted by a row of 32 baguette-cut diamonds, while the dial is adorned with rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, as well as baguette-cut diamond hour markers. The gem-setting continues onto the bracelet, too; its central links are set with baguette-cut diamonds, while the main links feature regular rows of brilliant-cut ones.
This Haute Joaillerie Nautilus is powered by the self-winding calibre 26-330 S.
Calatrava, reference 6196P
Far more in line with the minimalist Calatrava models of yesteryear is this new model in platinum, which is enhanced by the vintage touch of a sleek opaline rose-gilt dial.
This striking dial is complemented by the anthracite white gold applied and faceted "obus"-style hour markers—the colour of which perfectly contrasts with the salmon hue. The shiny chocolate-brown alligator leather strap complements the hour markers and transitions perfectly from the slender lugs.
This piece runs on the manual-wind caliber 30 255 PS with small seconds.
